Vet Your Fence Contractor
The checks that separate a solid installer from a problem — licence, permits, property lines, post depth, and gate hardware — plus the red flags worth walking away from. Tick items off as you go; progress saves on this device. Written by people who don't sell fences.
0 of 21 checks complete
0%Walk away if you see these
- Wants full or majority payment upfront
- Door-to-door pitch, or pressure to sign today to 'lock in' a price
- Won't pull a permit, or suggests you don't need one without checking
- No verifiable licence, insurance, or local physical address
- Refuses to itemize the quote, or won't put post depth in writing
- Cash only, or no written contract
- Dismisses the property line question or says 'we'll just follow the old fence'
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The three checks specific to fencing
Generic contractor advice misses what actually goes wrong on fence jobs. These three are where the money and the disputes are:
1. Post depth and setting. A fence fails at the posts, not the panels. A common rule is a third of the above-ground height in the ground, and always below your local frost line — which is inches in the south and four feet or more in the north. Shallow or widely spaced posts are the single most common reason a fence leans within a few years, and it's invisible on the day it's finished. Get depth, diameter, and spacing in writing.
2. The property line. Never accept “we'll follow the old fence.” Old fences are frequently in the wrong place, and inheriting someone else's error can mean moving yours at your cost. Establish the boundary first, and have the quote state how far inside it the new fence will sit.
3. Who calls 811. Utility locating is free and generally required by law. Post holes are deep enough to hit gas, water, and electrical lines. Confirm in the contract who makes the call and that they wait for the markings.
Why take this from us
Most “how to choose a fence contractor” guides are published by fence contractors. FenceLevel doesn't install fences or take referral commissions on your choice, so this list is about protecting you rather than steering you.
The single most protective habit: get three itemized written quotes for the same scope, and never pay in full before the work is done.
Once you have quotes, check them against typical ranges — the gap between bids is usually explained by something on this checklist.
Keep going
Frequently asked questions
- What questions should I ask a fence contractor?
- Licence and insurance, who pulls the permit, who calls 811, distance from the property line, post depth and spacing, gate pricing, and what happens if they hit rock. All in writing.
- What are red flags with a fence contractor?
- Full payment upfront, door-to-door pitches, refusing to pull a permit or itemize, no verifiable licence, cash-only — and dismissing the property-line question.
- How deep should fence posts be set?
- Roughly a third of the above-ground height, and always below your local frost line. Shallow posts are the top cause of early leaning.
- Who is responsible for calling 811 before digging?
- Confirm it in writing. It's free, generally legally required, and a contractor who is casual about it is telling you something.
- Should I hire the cheapest fence contractor?
- Only after confirming like-for-like scope. Check whether a quote is fair first.